FAQ
Renovation and the current economy
Lately, I have been getting a whole new set of "frequently-asked questions," so I have added the following "answers." Clients are wondering, "With home prices falling, are contractors charging less? Is it really smart to spend money on renovations now? How can I downsize this renovation and still get good results?"
1) Although apartments may be priced lower than a year ago, this doesn't translate directly to contractor prices. An owner who bought at $125K a few years ago, and sells now for $700K rather than $900K, is still making a good return. Contractors simply don't have these kinds of margins. In fact, their margins are squeezed more these days, with insurance and materials costs continuing to climb, and co-op requirements becoming more stringent.
What's different now is that you have a better chance of landing a top-quality contractor. The good contractors are picking up talented staff, and may have more open schedules than before. This year, you can get a better VALUE for the same contracting dollars as last year.
2) The question of whether to spend ANY money on renovations this year depends on your circumstances. If your finances are truly marginal, then think twice. However, if you're in a position where you had intended to renovate anyway, then this is actually a great time to renovate. Permanently upgrading the value of your apartment is a better return than watching the money lose or make minimal gains. As one client said to me, "better to spend the money than lose it in the market!"
Even if you decide to hold off construction until the market recovers, it still takes anywhere from 4-12 months to gather approvals, so don't wait to begin designing and planning. Better to lock in bids and a good contractor early. Once the market recovers, everyone will again be booked up.
3) Sometimes, there is no choice about timing.
Buyers are taking advantage of the down market and these homes may be desperately in need of a fix-up.
Sellers need to stand out from the rest. A smart facelift will command a better price and sell faster.
Many people have switched gears to work from home, or have gotten married or had another child, and are not yet ready to invest in a bigger place.
Being smart about how renovation dollars are spent is even more crucial now. Many of my clients are second-time renovators who tell me, "we made choices last time that we regret. This time, we don't want to make any mistakes." This is where guidance from an experienced designer really helps.
WHAT'S THE SINGLE BEST THING I CAN DO TO IMPROVE MY HOME?
I'M NOT SURE WHAT I WANT.HOW SHOULD I GET STARTED?
I PRETTY MUCH KNOW WHAT I WANT,NOW WHAT?
HOW MUCH DOES A KITCHEN COST?
HOW MUCH DOES A BATHROOM COST?
HOW MUCH DOES PAINTING COST?
HOW MUCH DOES A GUT RENOVATION COST?
WHY DOES LABOR SEEM SO EXPENSIVE IN THIS CITY?
HOW MUCH MAKES SENSE TO INVEST?
ARE THERE ANY WAYS TO CUT COSTS?
WHAT IF I JUST DON'T HAVE THE SUGGESTED BUDGET?
HOW FAR AHEAD SHOULD WE START?
CAN I GET THIS RENOVATION DONE BEFORE THE BABY COMES?
HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE?
WHAT MAKES A RENOVATION RUN LONGER THAN EXPECTED?
HOW DO I FIND A GOOD CONTRACTOR?
WHY DO I HEAR SO MANY HORROR STORIES ABOUT CONTRACTORS?
WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE I START?
WHAT WILL HAPPEN ONCE THEY START?
WHEN WILL WE BE FINISHED?
WHAT IF WE WANT TO CHANGE SOMETHING AFTER WE START?
HOW DO I KEEP MY SANITY DURING THE CONSTRUCTION?
I WANT MY APARTMENT TO FEEL BIG AND BRIGHT, SO I SHOULD PAINT IT ALL WHITE, RIGHT?
DO I PAINT OR DO THE FLOORS FIRST?
SHOULD I USE PAINT EFFECTS, OR WALLPAPER?
WHAT IS A "PUNCH LIST?"
WHAT HAPPENS AFTER WE'RE FINALLY DONE?
GETTING STARTED
It's the cheapest thing, too. It's the first step in any big renovation, but it's the hardest part for anyone to do:
Clean out the house.
It's a given, living in New York, to run out of space to put everything. Most people respond to having more stuff by adding bookcases and cabinets. This starts to look even more cluttered. Aesthetically and financially, it's better to edit before building.
Often, it's just busyness or inertia that keeps us surrounded by things we really don't love. Are there things you own that never get used, read, or displayed? Furniture that is worn, mismatched, or serving no purpose? Gifts or inherited pieces that simply don't suit you? Perhaps a friend or charity would benefit by receiving these.
If you're iffy about any possession, ask if it will pass the mini-storage test: If you had to pay $40 a month to keep it, is it worth holding onto? Considering Manhattan real estate is worth about $1,000 per square foot, how much valuable space are these extra possessions taking up? [TOP]
Three things:
1. Get excited. Imagine your dream room. Make a wish list, no matter how far-fetched. The sky's the limit. Cut out pictures from magazines of rooms you love; think of rooms from movies that stick with you; make up stories about how you would live if you had your dream room.
2. Then get practical. Make a list of what you need this room to be. What function should it serve? What must be stored there? And, what items are in the room now that really don't need to be there?
3. Now get real. What is your budget for this room? Not, how little do you hope to get away with—what are you willing to spend to create your dream room?
Then, tell me everything. We'll figure out a great solution.[TOP]
Great. You have the big picture, now you can immerse yourself in the details. If you are contemplating a kitchen or bath renovation, there will be a gazillion decisions to make down the road. What flooring? What counter? Which appliances? Lighting? Faucet? Etcetera.
When we work together, I'll make as many specific suggestions as are appropriate. But start your research early. The Web is the easiest, fastest way to see what's out there, especially for appliances and plumbing fixtures.
I don't recommend starting your research at a kitchen or bath showroom. That visit is better timed after you have a defined direction. Most clients find it overwhelming to explore a showroom (especially a tile showroom) without a specific plan.[TOP]
WHAT IT COSTS
A typical kitchen gut renovation will fall in the $70-100K range, with higher-quality or more complicated designs falling at the higher end. That the size of the kitchen may be very small does not necessarily mean it will cost less, as there are still plumbing, electric, and construction issues to deal with. [TOP]
Bathrooms, even though they are often the smallest rooms in the house, can be the most expensive per square foot. This is because they are the "wet" rooms of a home. They involve major plumbing and tile costs.
The typical New York City 5' x 7' bathroom will generally cost about $35K—$55K to renovate, depending on materials and whether the tub is replaced. Handmade tile or an intricate layout can add $10-20K. The going rate for labor alone is $18-25K. [TOP]
There are many variables. Basically, a postwar apartment in good shape, with low ceilings, sheetrock walls, and no moldings, is much cheaper to paint than a pre-war apartment with high ceilings, damaged plaster, and lots of detail.
You can expect to pay, per room, $800—$1200 for the former, to upwards of $6000 for the latter, with every variation in between.[TOP]
What is a gut renovation? It is a project that involves reviving an apartment's walls, floors, moldings, the kitchen and at least one bathroom. Usually the organization and flow of the rooms will be rethought as well.
If you're looking for the best VALUE, a gut renovation will give you the greatest payoff. If there are several areas you plan on changing, and you expect to keep the apartment for at least 4 years, getting it all done at once is your best bet. The cost of renovating will only rise later on, and doing it piecemeal absolutely costs more. If you have to be inconvenienced, better to do it once and enjoy it longer. Plus, the larger jobs are more attractive to contractors, and more likely to attract better talent.
For a gut renovation of a Classic-6, expect labor costs of about $250-$450K, with materials and fixtures, expect to pay about $500-800K. Studio apartments will cost between $150-300K. [TOP]
Clients may express shock at labor costs here compared with work done at their weekend houses, by friends in the suburbs, or quoted in national magazines.
Renovation costs in New York City are higher than national averages, mainly because labor here costs more. Why? City contractors must deal with an array of challenges not typically encountered elsewhere: restricted work hours; difficult access; parking and ticket costs; trash container rentals; tipping building crew. In addition to workman's comp, payroll taxes, and other operating costs, which all legitimate contractors pay, insurance costs for city contractors skyrocketed post-9/11.
However, some of the most talented craftspeople in the world are based in New York City. Despite fluctuations in the real estate market, there has been no long-term shortage of work for contractors, and the best often have long waiting lists. As in other fields, the standards are higher here, and the best cost more for a reason. Quality workmanship is the best investment you can make. I would trade off costly materials for simpler ones, perfectly installed, any day. [TOP]
WHAT IT'S WORTH AT RESALE
It's become popular wisdom that your home should be treated as an investment, and be expected to turn a large profit upon resale. But the "flip this house" mentality is a relatively new outlook. With the emergence of property as commodity, the idea of "home" begins to recede.
Since this is your home, if you're going to spend any amount of time in it, you'll want to consider what kind of return it offers beyond strictly dollars. What will make this space a pleasure to walk into every day? What will make it a sanctuary against the outside world, or a comfortable family home, or a great place to throw a party?
Potential resale is only one of many factors to consider. How can you get the best VALUE out of the renovation? A well-designed home can increase your enjoyment of life on a daily basis, long before you're ready to put it back on the market.
Besides, in New York, you are very likely to at least break even, or make a handy profit when you sell. And you get to live in a beautiful place in the meantime!
So, what makes sense? Obviously, everyone will have a number in mind that they can realistically spend or finance. Try not to approach the question by figuring out the least amount you can get away with—but what amount within your budget will produce the best value, and give you a renovation that will truly satisfy you. Factor in how long you plan on staying, and what similar homes are selling for right now. In Manhattan, current sale prices average $800-1,000 per square foot, with more desirable apartments going for quite a bit more. One rule of thumb is to keep renovation costs between 10-20% of the home's value.
We often spend money on things that are not expected to offer a return on the investment, but simply because we enjoy and benefit from them (vacations, clothing, electronics). Aren't home improvements in the same category? If one compares the cost of a renovation with buying a luxury car—how many times a day would the car be used vs. the kitchen? How long will one offer a return on the investment vs. the other? (A good kitchen renovation can last 20 years, and we all know what happens to the value of a car as soon as you drive it off the lot.)
[TOP]
WORKING ON A TIGHT BUDGET
Yes. I will work with you on an individual basis to figure out what best suits your needs, but here are a few guidelines:
• A great paint job is the least expensive,
most effective way to upgrade.
• Relocating plumbing or gas lines costs more
than using the original positions.
• Surprise: knocking down non-load-bearing walls is cheaper than you might think. Don't rule it out.
• Chrome costs less than other finishes.
• Glazing a tub costs less than replacing it.
• Ordinary materials used in an original way can have more impact than expensive materials used in the expected way.
• Quality installation of simple products is a better payoff
than shoddy installation of expensive products
(see "Why is labor so expensive?")
• When it comes to tile, modern looks provide far more style for the money than traditional styles. Embrace the new!
• Finally, my mantra: if you can't delete it—dramatize it, disguise it, or distract from it. There are lots of ways to give your space a facelift if you can't afford major changes.
We'll talk. [TOP]
There's an old saying, "Buy the best and only cry once." The cold reality is that you are unlikely to get a designer renovation below a certain price point. If your budget for a kitchen is below $50K, planning a quality renovation can be difficult, though not entirely impossible. You'll have to get creative, and be willing to put in time and leg work.
For design services and contracted labor, your best bet may be to explore home centers and places like EXPO and IKEA that have in-store programs.
Search out discount fixtures and appliances from online retailers. Like cars, last year's models will be cheaper. Craig's List, auction sites, restaurant supply houses, and salvage yards are good sources for gently-used appliances, accessories or even cabinets. There are perfectly good, almost-new products that are discarded every day in this city for lack of someone who'll take them. Often they can be yours for the cost of a truck rental.
Use inexpensive materials in an artful way. Commercial tile, plywood, cement, interesting building materials, paint, etc., can be used to make a more original room than anything you'll ever see in a home center.
Any work you can do yourself saves money. Stripping wallpaper and other tasks are easily done by beginners; there are many books and chat rooms that offer instruction and advice.
If you are not the do-it-yourself type, try to find a handyman whose rates are below-market, possibly someone who is new to the field. You may not get a top-notch job, and it may take more time and patience than usual, but they might be a better fit for your budget. Professional designers want to work with professional contractors, so this is someone you will have to search out yourself. However, in most circumstances, I don't recommend working with friends or relatives, and hiring your super may prove equally tricky. These are hires that may make it awkward for you to offer honest feedback, or continue a personal relationship afterwards.[TOP]
PLANNING AHEAD
Most of the time between design and construction involves preparation: getting contractor bids and Board approval, shopping for every tile and light fixture to be installed, choosing appliances, etc. Then there is the act of clearing out the space to ready it for construction. These are tasks for which most people have only a few weekend hours available, and life tends to get in the way meanwhile.
Almost everyone begins by saying they are "ready to roll" and want to get started right away, but don't be surprised if it takes longer. In the end, you may appreciate how well the additional time serves you: how one decision leads to another, and how you begin to be aware of nuances you might not have noticed at first. [TOP]
The honest answer is, I wish all renovations happened BEFORE the pregnancy, or once the child is in Grammar school. Renovation creates health concerns for pregnant women and young children, but sometimes bad timing is unavoidable.
Lead dust and asthma triggers are very serious concerns. Exposure should be avoided by at-risk parties, preferably by vacating the apartment during the renovation. If this is not possible, exposure should be minimized, particularly during the early phases of demolition, when lead exposure is most likely, and during the final phases, when dust from sanding plaster and fumes from paint will be the most irritating.
Prior to moving back in, I recommend a thorough cleaning by an informed crew, using HEPA vacuums and moistened cloths. [TOP]
ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME
On average, a kitchen renovation will take 10—12 weeks. A bathroom renovation will take 6—8 weeks. (Take it with a grain of salt if your contractor tells you he'll do your bathroom in 3 weeks, I can't tell you how many times I've heard this.) A gut renovation can take 4 months to a year.
There are all kinds of reasons a renovation can take longer, and if your design is more complicated, or there are inherent problems in the space, expect it to take longer at the outset. [TOP]
This happens with some frequency, to the point where it is almost expected. It can happen despite having hired a qualified crew and prepared well. Even for an experienced contractor, renovations involve many unknowns, and it is possible that your contractor will run into surprises when he opens up a wall, especially in older buildings.
Some delays CAN be avoided:
• Rushing the process is, ironically, one of the biggest causes of delayed jobs. Projects that operate on a tight deadline, or with too little time given up front to decision making, or where construction starts before all components have been chosen, are the jobs that are tense, disorganized and almost doomed to meltdown.
• Not having all materials on hand prior to the start of the job. Once construction begins, waiting for a missing component will cause much wasted time. Sometimes this is unavoidable, i.e., tiles that were supposedly "in stock" end up sitting in Mexican customs for 3 weeks.
• Whether you do a full renovation or a simple paint job, not emptying the space as much as possible is a common, easy-to-avoid hindrance. When workers have to move or work around a client's belongings, it costs time and money. Prior to construction, edit furniture and closets, throw away items you are "iffy" about, send carpets out for cleaning, pack up personal belongings and, if necessary, rent an off-site storage space for the duration.
• Likewise, in some cases, a renovation will go faster if the home is vacated, at least during the dustiest part of renovation, especially in smaller apartments. (This is a decision to be made on a case-by-case basis.) [TOP]
WORKING WITH THE CONTRACTOR
As part of our consultation, I will refer you to a contractor who is a good fit for your particular project. If you would prefer to find your own GC, here are some suggestions:
• Like anything else in this city, network. Ask every friend and co-worker who they've used—put out a group email asking for suggestions.
• Consult the experts. Visit TheFranklinReport.com, a Zagat's-type guide to renovation, also available as a book. Contractors and other service providers are rated for quality, price and service. One to One Studio is also rated.
• New York Landmarks Conservancy publishes a directory of contractors and services appropriate to historical buildings.
If you are planning a major renovation, you should only hire a licensed GC. Professional affiliations (NKBA, NARI, etc.) and licensing may be an indication of quality, but they are not a guarantee. You can check for complaints with Consumer Affairs (call 311) using the license number of a contractor.
It's important to match the skill level to the scope of the job: don't hire a handyman to save money when you really need a GC, and don't expect a GC to want to come hang shelves in a closet.
An important consideration is whether or not the trades people are insured. Most buildings will require at least $1.5 million liability insurance, and that the contractor provide a "Certificate of Additional Insured." Even if your building doesn't ask to see proof of insurance, you should, and make sure that the insurance is in the name of the person you hire. Don't hire anyone who says they will get coverage "from a friend." Any tradesperson who hasn't bothered to get themselves insured is not a real professional.
However you find your contractor, even through me, check them out thoroughly. CALL their references (few people really do!) and go to visit some of their finished and current jobs. If the job site is a disorganized mess, that's what your house is going to look like, too.
It is crucial that you get a sense of personal integrity and commitment from your contractor and his crew, and that you communicate well with each other. Most importantly, go with your gut when choosing a contractor. This will be an involved relationship, and you should have the right feeling about this person. [TOP]
Have you ever had a root canal? Didn't everyone insist on telling you their WORST root canal story? I've had three perfectly fine root canals; they don't make for great stories.
To be sure, renovation is messy, inconvenient, and expensive. If there ever were a situation you might enter voluntarily that would guarantee frustration, this is one of them. If you can begin your renovation with realistic expectations, your frustration level may be lower.
The process of renovation is essentially about problem solving: The mark of a good contractor is not that NO problems come up, but rather, HOW WELL the problems are solved.
The most frequent complaints about contractors regard poor communication skills. And there often is a culture clash between trades people and clients, particularly around the speed of returning phone calls or obtaining bids. This is something to understand going in.
To many trades people, calling back within 2 days is considered "getting right back to you." Most take 1-2 weeks to write up bids, even though they may tell you 3 days. A general rule is that contractors hate doing paperwork—it's like homework—and after a long, physically taxing day, it often gets put off.
Contractors may not have the same level of awareness about customer service as their clients, who tend to be business professionals. Few have had any business management experience prior to finding themselves running a crew. But MOST contractors are talented, hardworking, small business owners who really DO want to make their clients happy. And the best ones have learned the lessons of good customer service. [TOP]
BEFORE RENOVATION STARTS
If you live in a multi-family dwelling, obtain the formal alteration agreement from your managing agent as early as possible. It will outline the exact steps your building requires from you. Most likely, you will need to describe what you plan to do (the "scope of work"), and may be required to provide drawings and file with the Department of Buildings for a permit. Generally, if you are making only cosmetic changes (not moving the position of fixtures or walls), your renovation will be considered a "repair" and may not require DOB filing.
Prepare your home for renovation: shed any unwanted items, pack up personal belongings, empty the space as much as possible. This is the time to send rugs and window treatments out for cleaning, and furniture out for re-upholstery.
Prepare your neighbors for what is about to happen, since they will be experiencing your renovation as well. A gift basket with a note is a worthwhile investment! Let them know when you plan to start and about how long it may last. Provide contact info where you can be reached when you are not at home. Introduce your contractor and crew if possible, and be sure there is always someone to speak to in case of emergencies.
It’s always in good taste to slip the super a few bucks in advance as he will be the gate keeper and can be either part of the solution or part of the problem when it comes to timely issues like water shut downs bringing Sub Zero refrigerators through the lobby as they rarely fit through the service entrance and generally lubing the wheels of progress. A few hundred bucks here goes a long way.
And don’t forger the porters.[TOP]
DURING THE RENOVATION
The steps in construction, generally, are:
1. Protection: Covering the client's floors and property.
2. Demo: The most exciting and dusty part.
3. Roughing in: The plumber and electrician lay pipes and cables inside the walls, in preparation for the appliances and fixtures that will later be installed.
4. Closing up: The open walls are sealed, patched, sometimes primed and painted.
5. Initial installation: Floors are laid, cabinetry is set, fixtures and tiles are placed.
6. Countertops: Templating is done after cabinets are set. There may be a 2-week gap while the counters are fabricated.
7. Hook-ups: The electrician and plumber return to make the appliances and plumbing functional.
8. Final installation: Backsplashes, cabinet pulls, doorknobs, painting, etc. are finished.
9. The punch list: See, "finishing up."
What usually happens is that clients get very excited at the beginning, when things seem to happen very quickly. You may come to believe that you'll be finished faster than expected. Then, suddenly, things seem to slow to a crawl. During the middle phase of the process, it can be trying. It will often seem to be going slower than hoped, and there will be days when you swear there has been no progress at all.
This is the nature of construction, and there is a period, after the first walls are up, when it looks exactly the same for a long time, because prep work is being done. Then, just as in the beginning, a lot of big changes happen at once: cabinets and appliances appear, the room is tiled and the sink and toilet are in place.
Suddenly it looks like a room again and you think, "FINALLY, we're almost done!"
Well, you're close, and it's great to see a light at the end of the tunnel, but in all likelihood, you're probably a month away from being completely finished (see steps 7, 8, 9). Hang in there, the reward is coming! [TOP]
For the sake of your sanity, try not to focus on the end date. This is definitely a situation where it helps to try and enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
Clients may start a project expecting their contractor to provide a week-by-week projection of what will happen when and what date it will be completed. After all, schedules are an accepted way of life in the business world.
Unless you are doing a million-dollar renovation, it is unlikely you will get this from your contractor. This is part of the culture clash between clients and contractors, and it's important to know this going in. It will only serve to disappoint everyone if the end date is the focus. I always tell clients, don't ask your contractor, "when will you finish?" Ask him at the start of each week, "what will happen this week?" That's the best way to get accurate information and avoid frustration. [TOP]
One of the things that can cause a job to run longer are changes that are made once the job is in progress. I've read many magazine articles that advise against making such changes. I disagree.
During the design phase, you have thought through your project in minute detail. By the time construction begins, you will have explored, on paper, several different options and made solid choices.
But sometimes, once walls are taken down, an opportunity to do something great presents it’ self. My feeling is, if it will make the final job better, and the contingency budget covers it, you will be happier down the road if you make the change. [TOP]
HOW TO COPE
The truism about renovation is that it is like childbirth. It's really tough to live through, but the payoff down the line is terrific, and no one ever says, "I wish I hadn't done it."
A few strategies to get you through it:
PREPARE FOR IT:
• Understand that you will be inconvenienced. Sometimes it's all about setting expectations.
• Create a temporary kitchen in a clean area with your old fridge or a dorm model, a microwave, toaster oven or hot plate, electric kettle or coffee maker. (Be careful not to overload circuits.)
• It may be less stressful to use disposables rather than wash dishes in your tub.
• Expect to eat most of your meals away from home, so take the opportunity to explore unfamiliar restaurants—discover new dishes to recreate later in your revamped kitchen.
AVOID IT:
• If you can schedule business travel or a vacation during the worse part of demo, do it!
• If you have a weekend house or can borrow a friend's, get out of the construction zone at least for a few days.
• Reconnect with old friends over dinner (feel free to play on their sympathies to get a home-cooked meal at THEIR house!)
• Stay out late catching up on New York culture. You can nest AFTER the construction is done.
• Many people find themselves at their gyms more than usual during a renovation, both to take showers and avoid going home. This can create it's own payoff—you AND your home get a makeover!
PROTECT YOURSELF:
• There is no amount of plastic sheeting that can completely seal out all of the fine dust of construction. Make sure your family and crew remain diligent about closing off exits for the duration. Lay a damp cloth inside and outside exits for wiping feet on.
• Keep a spray bottle of water near your private entrance to spritz the air. This helps dust particles fall to the floor. Damp mop often.
• Use an air purifier in every sleeping area, and possibly a vaporizer or humidifier as well.
• Children and pets will be more sensitive to irritants and disruption, be aware of asthma or allergy symptoms. Combat crankiness: Arrange construction during summer months when everyone can be out of the house more; ask the crew to do quiet work during scheduled nap times; take advantage of after-school or library programs.
REWARD YOURSELF
• When it's all over, treat yourself to some special new kitchen gadget or bath oil you've been lusting after. (Guys usually go for the flat screen TV.) [TOP]
GETTING PAINTED
My answer in 90 percent of the cases would be, "no." Unless you have a fabulously huge, sun-drenched loft, white can often be the worst choice to make. Clean, strong sunlight is what makes white look good. New York is a city with grey, hazy, refracted light. And most apartments lack direct sun, open views, and space.
So what's the solution? Work with the light you have. Warm and off-whites look better in NYC light than cold blue-whites. Whites appear whiter when paired with an accent color, even if the overall effect is white-on-white.
An apartment that is on a low floor or facing a courtyard is always going to have moody, shadowy light. It's better to play that to an advantage, rather than fight it. Go with sophisticated, grayed-down neutrals that will lend a soothing feel to the room. Or create your own "sunshine" with strong colors that hold their own: cornflower blues, lime greens, pumpkins, and reds. Avoid yellows, which need some amount of sunshine to look their best.
Another "rule" breaker that works great: put the darkest, strongest color in the darkest, smallest space (bathrooms, maid's rooms, entrances). It will have the effect of making the walls disappear and the space will feel bigger and cozier at the same time. Plus, artwork will pop on these dramatic walls.
Don't be afraid of using strong color, even in a studio apartment. Just be sure it's a color you love. [TOP]
This is a very popular question, and one there is some debate about. One camp maintains that floors should be done first, so that the dust from sanding doesn't stick to the newly-painted walls, and so that the sander doesn't scuff up the newly-painted baseboards.
I'm with the second camp. Any good floor sander these days should use a self-contained dust bag. The amount of dust created should be minimal, less than an average day of NYC soot. Scuffed baseboards are easily touched up, and good paint crews plan on it.
The best thing is to leave your new floors to cure for as long as possible before putting furniture back or allowing any traffic. A weekend is the minimal amount of time, a week is preferred. [TOP]
Wallpaper can be a terrific way to add interest to a room, and offers intricate, precise patterns not always achievable with paint. Paint finishes have certain advantages: designs and colors are easily customized, and more durable in humid conditions, such as a bathroom.
Paint effects are not for everyone, and not appropriate in every room. Many paint techniques have gotten a bad rap—too many badly-sponged restaurant walls and too-cute stencils. But handled well, in the right room, they can be amazing. Restraint is key when doing finishes, and unless you are trying to match an actual stone fireplace, we never need to see marbling again. [TOP]
FINISHING UP
After the major work has been done, the final phase of construction is known as the "punch list." This is a list of minor details that need to be addressed, things such as missing light plate covers, or unsatisfactory finish work. This is usually the most frustrating time for both the owner and the contractor. The owner "just wants it to be done," and the contractor is trying to find openings in the schedules of his crew and subcontractors to come back for an hour at a time—not an easy thing to do.
Don't drive yourself crazy. Open communication with the contractor during construction helps to minimize the punch list. But it is an expected part of the process and should not detract from your overall satisfaction with a well-done installation. [TOP]
Believe it or not, you may miss the excitement of your renovation! Many clients experience an odd form of "empty nest" syndrome the first morning they are not greeted by the crew. But life quickly returns to normal as you unpack back into your new home and start enjoying the renovation you worked so hard to create.
Some things to expect as you return to living in your home:
• Be aware of any specific cleaning or maintenance needs your new purchases may require. In general, avoid bleach and abrasive cleansers.
• Read the manufacturer's booklets and file warrantees in a safe place. Should anything break down during the warrantee period, it will more likely be the manufacturer (not the contractor) who will deal with it.
• You can expect cracks to appear in grout and moldings during the first winter. The heat and lack of humidity can cause wood and other surfaces to shrink. This is normal and expected, not a defect of installation. Arrange with your crew to come back and caulk openings in late winter and they should not reappear the following year.
Finally: Celebrate! Throw yourself a big housewarming party and bask in the compliments, then promise to take a year off before you start the next renovation! [TOP]
I have borrowed this from a good friend and a wonderful designer; please visit her web site and Franklin Report listing as well. Her talent is legendary and she is much better looking than me.
Clare Donohue
Renovation advice
Kitchen and bath design
Paint color selection
One to One Studio
459 Columbus Ave, Suite 512
New York, NY 10024
(347)452-9594
www.121studio.com
clare@121studio.com
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